Let us be frank: Naples is not a golf destination. The only course in the metropolitan area, the Circolo Golf Napoli, lies in the extinct Campiglione crater in the Phlegraean Fields, inside Carney Park, a US Navy recreation base; access is restricted to American military personnel and club members. To the north, Volturno Golf at Castel Volturno is now listed by the Italian Golf Federation only as a seven-hole promotional course. To play, you have to take the road.
The two serious options are nine-hole courses, a little over an hour from the city. Golf Club Salerno, in Pontecagnano, pairs with a day on the Salerno coast; Mirabella Golf Club, to the east, spreads among the vines and olive trees of the hills of Avellino, in the heart of Taurasi country. Neither justifies the journey on its own, but each offers a green breather between days in the city.
For it is the city that makes the trip: the historic centre, a World Heritage Site since 1995, the National Archaeological Museum, Pompeii and Herculaneum at the foot of Vesuvius, pizza and a two-Michelin-star table facing the bay. Three to five nights are enough, with a round or two slipped into the programme. In the evening, from the heights of Chiaia, Vesuvius stands out against the bay.