Golf guide • Portugal • Algarve

Golf at Vale do Lobo: the Royal, the Ocean and the Algarve's golden cliffs

Vale do Lobo is a golf and villa estate on the Atlantic shore of the Algarve, twenty minutes from Faro airport. It offers two 18-hole courses that start among umbrella pines and finish facing the beach: the Royal, famous for its 16th, a par 3 played over a ravine along the clifftops, and the Ocean, which grew out of Sir Henry Cotton's layouts. The best periods run from February to June and from September to November.

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Vale do Lobo was one of Portugal's first holiday estates. The land, a forest of umbrella pines on the Atlantic, was acquired in 1962, the year the decision was taken to build Faro airport, and the Dona Filipa hotel opened in 1968. The golf grew up around the designs of the golfer Sir Henry Cotton, before the American Rocky Roquemore redesigned the whole into two distinct courses.

Together with Quinta do Lago, its neighbour to the east, Vale do Lobo forms one corner of what is known as the Algarve's Golden Triangle. There is no old town or harbour here: white villas beneath the pines, a small square that comes alive in summer, restaurants, and the beach at the foot of ochre cliffs. The golf is played over rolling ground that runs down to the sea, and the most spectacular holes brush the sand.

Stay on the estate and you can do without a car: you walk, or ride in a buggy, between the villa, the two courses and the beach; from a house in the hills inland, you will need one. Four to six nights are enough to play each course twice, keep a day for the Ria Formosa and dine off the estate, at the restaurants around Almancil.

The courses

Rolling fairway lined with umbrella pines and oaks, white sand bunkers and the ocean on the horizon at sunset

Vale do Lobo Royal Golf Course

  • Architect: Rocky Roquemore
  • Opened 1997
  • 18 holes
  • Par 72

Inaugurated in 1997, the Royal was designed by Rocky Roquemore from Henry Cotton's original plans. Par 72 over a little more than 6,000 metres from the back tees, it winds between umbrella pines, lakes and beds of wild flowers before reaching the cliff edge. The fairways roll, the bunkers are plentiful and the greens take some reading. Thirteen of its holes were used for the European Tour's Portuguese Open in 2002 and 2003. The estate's flagship course, for every level, but to be played with respect for the wind.

Signature hole. The 16th, a par 3 of 224 metres from the back tee, is played along the cliff edge over a ravine and a large bunker, with the beach below: one of the most photographed holes in Europe. The 9th, with its green almost entirely surrounded by water, is not bad either.

Official website

Vale do Lobo Ocean Golf Course

  • Architect: Henry Cotton
  • Opened 1985
  • 18 holes
  • Par 73

The Ocean brings together two of the original nine-hole courses designed by Sir Henry Cotton. Par 73 over a little more than 6,100 metres, it begins on rolling fairways alongside a nature reserve, among umbrella pines and cork oaks, then runs down towards the sea. At the top of the 11th, the Atlantic suddenly appears behind the green; the 14th plays from an elevated tee towards the beach. More open than the Royal, with several blind shots, it rewards those who play for position rather than length. A good course for the first day.

Signature hole. The 15th, a 195-metre par 3 from the back, runs alongside the beach: with bunkers in front and to the right, and sand and out of bounds to the left, it forgives neither the short shot nor the off-centre one.

Official website

Where to stay

Dona Filipa Hotel

The estate's first hotel, opened in 1968 and now rated five stars, two hundred metres from the beach and between the two courses. You come here for the service of a grand house, a reception desk and room service rather than a villa. The detail: book a Golf & Sea View room, whose balcony looks over both the fairways and the Atlantic; the Land rooms only see the garden.

Âmago

Liz and Alex Harvey left London to turn this old farmhouse in Santa Bárbara de Nexe, in the hills between Loulé and Faro, into a six-room guesthouse decorated with the help of local artists. A saltwater pool among the fruit trees, breakfast on the terrace, an honesty bar. Ask for Room 6 and its private terrace. Vale do Lobo is about twenty minutes away; there is no dinner on site and no children under thirteen.

White villa with a tiled roof and a pool beneath umbrella pines, oleanders in flower in the evening light

Where to dine

Well Vale do Lobo

Opened in 2021 on Vale do Lobo beach, Well combines a beach club with a pool and an Asian-inspired restaurant, sushi first, with Portuguese dishes and grilled meats as well. The best moment is lunch by the pool after a morning round, while the mood is still calm. On summer evenings music and entertainment take over: not the place for a quiet dinner in July.

Pequeno Mundo

In an old Algarve house near Almancil, a few minutes from the estate, Pequeno Mundo serves international cooking with French and Portuguese accents in the evening, with a six-course tasting menu; the Michelin Guide lists it. In summer ask for a table in one of the flower-filled patios, in winter by the fireplace in the bar. Order the prawns with sautéed portobello mushrooms. Closed on Sundays.

2 Passos

On Ancão beach, inside the Ria Formosa natural park, 2 Passos has been serving fish and seafood facing the ocean for more than thirty years: grilled squid, the catch of the day over the coals. It opens for lunch only, ideal after a morning round. The detail: the house specialities, such as the tiger prawns and the "à Passos" rice, are ordered when you book.

Beyond golf

The beach and the cliffs

Vale do Lobo beach stretches beneath cliffs of ochre and orange sandstone, which erosion has carved into pinnacles and gullies. Wooden steps lead down to the sand; at low tide, the walk west or east goes on and on. In the late afternoon, when the light skims along the coast, it is the best way to loosen the legs after eighteen holes.

The Ria Formosa

To the east, towards Faro, lies the Ria Formosa, a system of lagoons and barrier islands protected as a natural park and linked to the ocean by six inlets. A Ramsar-listed wetland, it is a migration corridor where some 30,000 birds can be observed every year. A boat trip or a walk along the lagoon-side paths fills a morning without golf perfectly.

The azulejos of São Lourenço

At Almancil, the little church of São Lourenço is entirely lined with blue and white azulejos laid in 1730 and signed by Policarpo de Oliveira Bernardes. Vault, dome and walls tell the life of Saint Lawrence, up to his martyrdom. A half-hour visit, to fit in on the way to dinner in Almancil.

Wooden staircase descending between dunes to a golden beach lined with ochre cliffs, Atlantic waves

When to go

Spring, from February to June, is the best season: mild weather, clear light and courses in good shape. Autumn, from September to November, brings temperatures that are still pleasant and well-kept greens. Winter remains playable, with mild days broken by rain, and draws many golfers from northern Europe. July and August are hot and very busy, on the courses as on the beach: play early in the morning then and enjoy the square in the evening.

Getting there

Faro airport (FAO), served by many direct flights from across Europe, is about twenty minutes' drive from Vale do Lobo via the N125 and Almancil. For guests staying on the estate, a car is only useful for leaving it. Lisbon and Seville are about two and a half hours away by road, so the stay can be combined with either.

Frequently asked questions

What is the best golf course at Vale do Lobo?

The Royal, designed by Rocky Roquemore from Henry Cotton's plans and inaugurated in 1997. Its 16th, a 224-metre par 3 on the cliff edge, is one of the most photographed holes in Europe.

How many golf courses are there at Vale do Lobo?

Two 18-hole courses: the Royal (par 72) and the Ocean (par 73). The three courses at Quinta do Lago, the neighbouring estate, have a guide of their own.

When is the best time to play golf at Vale do Lobo?

From February to June and from September to November. Winter remains playable; July and August are hot and very busy.

How long should a golf trip to Vale do Lobo be?

Four to six nights: enough to play each of the two courses twice and keep a day for the beach or the Ria Formosa.

Which airport is best for a golf trip to Vale do Lobo?

Faro airport (FAO), about twenty minutes' drive from the estate.

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