Istanbul spreads across both shores of the Bosphorus, the strait that links the Black Sea to the Sea of Marmara and separates Europe from Asia. The historic peninsula, listed by UNESCO, gathers Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque and Topkapı Palace; opposite, across the Golden Horn, Beyoğlu and Karaköy are packed with galleries, rooftop terraces and modern restaurants. The ferries crossing from one shore to the other are as much a part of daily life as of the scenery.
Golf here remains a club affair. The city has only two eighteen-hole courses, both on the European side. Kemer Golf & Country Club occupies the wooded hills of the Belgrad Forest, to the north, near the new airport. The second, designed by Tony Jacklin and opened in 1994 under the name Klassis, lies in the wooded hills of Silivri, near the Sea of Marmara, some 70 kilometres west of the centre as the crow flies; it is now run by the Turkish Golf Federation.
A successful trip is therefore built the other way round from a classic golf holiday: three or four days in the city, two or three rounds scheduled early in the morning to beat the traffic, and the rest of the time for the bazaars, the Bosphorus and the restaurants. For those who want to play course after course, better to extend the trip to Belek, on the Antalya coast, by domestic flight.